The Guggenheim Museum / Photo: Unsplash
Bilbao is the heart of the Basque Country—a city that was revived thanks to its iconic museum. Can a museum breathe new life into a city? The “Bilbao experiment” proved that it can. Perhaps because the Guggenheim’s groundbreaking building—with its flowing, wave-like curves—is itself a modern work of art. Designed by architect Frank Gehry using limestone, glass, and titanium, this architectural masterpiece lifted the city from the ashes of the deindustrialization that plagued it in the late 20th century. It woke Bilbao from its cultural slumber, bathing it in light and revitalizing the urban landscape. It re-energized the economy and put the city firmly on the global cultural map.
The museum’s opening in 1997 was a bold gamble by the Basques—and it paid off. Now, nearly three decades later, Bilbao’s architectural landmark is considered one of the most recognizable modern museums in the world.
Titanium Brilliance on the Riverbank
The Guggenheim sits on the western bank of the Nervión River, which runs through Bilbao and into the Cantabrian Sea. Built on a foundation of reinforced concrete piles, the museum blends seamlessly into its urban environment. Its exterior is clad in 33,000 lightweight yet durable titanium panels, chosen for their resistance to weather and minimal environmental impact. These panels reflect light in ever-changing ways, creating a dynamic appearance that shifts with the weather. The shimmering silver tones and undulating form of the museum make for a mesmerizing visual effect that captures every gaze. The Guggenheim, through the power of art and architecture, transforms the city itself.
Photo: Vasso Vasiliadioti
Seen from the river, the iconic structure resembles a moored ship with billowing sails—an image inspired by the city’s maritime history. Outside, “Puppy,” a floral sculpture by Jeff Koons, stands as the museum’s unofficial mascot. Made from thousands of colorful flowers, the 12-meter-tall puppy charms visitors of all ages. Nearby, Louise Bourgeois’s giant spider, Maman, crafted from bronze, looms over the plaza—10 meters tall and weighing 8 tons, due in part to the 28 eggs she carries beneath her.
Reflected in the surface of the nearby pool are Yayoi Kusama’s red dots and Tall Tree and the Eye by Indian artist Anish Kapoor—an installation of 73 highly polished stainless-steel spheres arranged in three columns. Standing 13 meters tall, it resembles a tree rising from the water, with each sphere offering distorted reflections of its surroundings. The nearby La Salve Bridge, enhanced by Daniel Buren’s Red Arches, completes the site’s visual harmony, mirrored in the river’s waters.
Interior and Collections
Flamingo Capsule, James Rosenquist / Photo: Vasso Vasiliadioti
Inside, the museum is just as spectacular. Its curved forms and expansive glass walls create a bright, airy space. A 50-meter-high central atrium floods the interior with natural light, offering sweeping views of the Basque countryside and serving as the museum’s organizing core. The three floors of the museum spiral around this atrium, connected by curved walkways, glass-and-titanium elevators, and staircases.
The museum hosts permanent and rotating exhibitions featuring Spanish and international artists such as Mark Rothko, Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning, Claes Oldenburg, Yves Klein, Jeff Koons, and Richard Serra. During our visit, the temporary exhibitions included works by Austrian expressionist Oskar Kokoschka and a retrospective of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.
“Tall Tree and the Eye,” Anish Kapoor / Photo: Vasso Vasiliadioti
One of the museum’s most significant pieces is The Matter of Time by Richard Serra. In a 142-meter-long and 27-meter-wide gallery, eight massive steel spirals form a labyrinth of curved pathways. Visitors can walk around and inside the sculptures, experiencing the minimalist work from all angles. The installation invites you to get lost in its simplicity and balance—monumental, industrial, and shaped by time and oxidation.
In contrast, Jeff Koons’s shiny, oversized Tulips reimagine everyday objects using brightly polished stainless steel. The brilliant colors and smooth finishes reflect the museum’s interior and visitors alike. Spread across three floors, we also saw Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Diptych—multiple portraits of Marilyn Monroe created shortly after her death in 1962—half in color, half in black and white.
Other highlights included Waking by British duo Gilbert & George, Barge by Robert Rauschenberg, Flamingo Capsule by James Rosenquist, and Rising Sea by El Anatsui, made of copper and aluminum wire. El Anatsui, based in Nigeria, often uses materials sourced from recycling centers.
The Guggenheim Bilbao spans 24,000 square meters, with 11,000 dedicated to exhibition space. Gallery spaces mix traditional rectangular rooms with more unconventional, irregular shapes—reflecting Gehry’s innovative spirit. The museum also offers educational programs including workshops, lectures, and film screenings, helping visitors engage more deeply with contemporary art and culture.
“Tulips,” Jeff Koons / Photo: Vasso Vasiliadioti
The Story Behind the Museum
The Guggenheim Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Bilbao was founded following a 1991 proposal from the Basque government to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in New York. According to the agreement, the Basque government would fund construction, establish a $50 million acquisitions fund, and commit to a $12 million annual operating budget. The Guggenheim Foundation would handle programming, including exhibitions from its New York-based permanent collection.
The Basques envisioned a monumental building to revitalize their declining post-industrial district. Frank Gehry’s design was chosen through an international competition.
Encouraged by the foundation, Gehry took a bold approach, creating a structure that embodied the spirit of contemporary art. His deconstructivist style gives the impression of defying gravity. Construction was completed in just four years at a cost of $89 million. The museum was inaugurated in October 1997 by Spain’s King Juan Carlos. Initially criticized for its high cost, the museum opened with 250 works and is now considered one of the world’s most important institutions for modern and contemporary art.
Photo: Vasso Vasiliadioti
The Guggenheim Bilbao has become a global symbol of architecture’s transformative power—frequently cited as one of the most influential buildings of the past few decades. Its success sparked the development of new cultural and recreational infrastructure throughout the city, making Bilbao a model of urban regeneration. Designed by internationally renowned architects, these projects have turned the city into a global hub for modern design.
The museum has welcomed over 27 million visitors to date. In 2010, it was recognized in the World Architecture Survey as one of the greatest architectural achievements since 1980. Many cities have since tried to replicate the so-called “Guggenheim effect” by launching their own large-scale projects, often with less successful results.
The Old Town
Just a short walk from the Guggenheim is Bilbao’s historic center. The Old Town is centered around Bidebarrieta Street, which leads to the Cathedral of Santiago. Here you’ll find some of the city’s oldest churches, buildings dating back to the 1400s, the Arriaga Theater (inspired by the Paris Opera), and one of Europe’s oldest covered markets. Wandering through its narrow streets lined with striking old buildings feels like stepping back in time. You’ll discover hidden plazas and corners where architecture ranges from Art Nouveau to neoclassical to baroque.
The Old Town’s heart is known as Siete Calles (Seven Streets), the original core of the city.
Photo: Vasso Vasiliadioti
When you're ready for a break, stop by one of the many bars in Plaza Nueva to enjoy pintxos—the Basque version of tapas—paired with a cold beer or a glass of local white wine, Txakoli. Gastronomy is another thriving art form in the Basque Country, home to six Michelin-starred restaurants in a city of just 350,000 people.
The old and new parts of the city are connected by five bridges, including the Arenal Bridge and the Zubizuri Bridge, designed by famed architect Santiago Calatrava.
A City Reimagined
Bilbao is cosmopolitan yet distinctly Basque—bold, free-spirited, and confidently embracing modernity through culture, architecture, and innovation. It has been transformed into a city of shimmering steel and light. And though we say goodbye, we do so with a promise to return.
As we leave, we carry two final images from the mouth of the Nervión River where it meets the Cantabrian Sea: in Portugalete stands another symbol of the region—the Vizcaya Bridge (Puente Bizkaia), the world’s first transporter bridge and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
